journeywithmadonna

Another ‘Rock’

Krk is Croatia’s largest island and although it is not too stunning it is one of the busiest islands in the summer mainly for Germans and Austrians. It is connected to the mainland by a bridge and it is also from here that you can take the ferry to Rab. Croatia can rival Newfoundland for the title of ‘the rock’ as you can see behind Jim while we were waiting for the ferry that it truly is a Rock wall. We were amazed at how rocky the islands were and they still had all kinds of vegetation. This is where it differs from Nfld. as it’s so much warmer and things can grow!

Excellent dinner in Sebenik

View of konoba from Bay of Sibenik – it’s to the left of pinkish coloured building

Jim…..to swim or not to swim is the question?

Jim with one foot in and one foot out; our view of the sunset from the terrace!
Sibenik, population 37,000, was an amazing place recommended to Marilyn by the Croatian Embassy in Ottawa. It hasn’t changed for centuries but according to the Lonely Planet guide it is now abuzz with energy which you could certainly feel even in the off season. We stayed at a Konoba B and B which was really a two bedroom apartment in the medieval quarter and was Dutch owned. It was a restored stone house with a terrace and a great view of the old town and Sibenik Bay. In the morning breakfast was delivered and consisted of coffee, tea, orange juice, croissants, yogurt, bananas, apple, pomegranate, ham, cheese, whole wheat and regular French/type baguette and I think that’s it…….there was so much we took the rest for lunch as we were hiking that day. Supper was just down the medieval steps and the food was fabulous and prepared by chefs and servers who were in training. Our waiter was extremely attentive, spoke excellent English, recommended a very good and inexpensive red wine and the bruschetta we had as an appetizer was second to none.

……has a population of 920 and most of them were out for Mass on the Sunday we were visiting as it was quite busy in the streets on this early Sunday morning. It’s a very scenic place and is known for its pastel coloured houses, hotels and cafés around the little inlet. As with many other Croatian old towns you have to park quite a distance away and then hoof it down the cobblestone streets through a maze of old stone homes, apartments, and wonderful gardens before you come to the centra where there’s always a huge Church. What amazed me are the gardens and the flowers that seen to be flowing out of the rocks, and yet I can’t grow them in a garden!

……..no matter where you are. On an early morning walk in Nezerene these little creatures began to follow us. Cute as they were I was thrilled I couldn’t take one home!

The first Islands we visited were Cres and Losinj and they are known for their hiking and biking neither of which we did much of due to self-inflicted scheduling issues. Losinj Islands are quite beautiful and the ports of Mali Losinj and Veli Losinj were worth a visit mainly for their beauty and we were fortunate that they were not overrun by tourists when we were there. We stayed in a small village called Nezerene in north Losinj and it was there we met and had a drink with Susan Sarandon, well, not really! The truth is we were looking for a place to stay as it was getting to be mid-afternoon and because the tourist season was over not much was open. A local person referred us to the only little hotel that was open because the multitude of apartments, guest houses, B and B’s were all closed for the season. It was right on the water and was gorgeous so we check in and shortly thereafter found ourselves out on the patio enjoying a cocktail. The person at the next table strikes up a conversation and we quickly found out she was the owner and the whole time she was chatting I kept thinking of how much she reminded me of Susan Sarandon, especially around the eyes; it was truly quite remarkable. So finally I said to her, “it’s amazing how much you remind me of an American actress”, not thinking to tell her who it was. She replies, of course, with “Oh you mean Susan S., yes I have been told that a lot”. We agreed it was quite a compliment. The hotel, food, view and all inclusive breakfast was great……..excellent place to return to. Pictures are of Jim waiting for the ferry and coming into Cres.

…..has a population of 4,500 and all but a dozen were away the day we visited. We hardly saw a soul but did find a local young man to ask directions tp Pazin’s chasm for which the town is very well known. Basically the town draws tourists because of the gaping chasm that inspired Jules Verne and also because of its castle. The chasm is a deep abyss of about 100 m and we were able to walk down but were unable to continue into the cave not only because it was closed for the season but also because you needed special gear. The picture of Jim is when we hiked down and the other picture is looking down towards the cave which you can’t really see. Anyway it was worth a stop and a little hike to stretch the old legs.

A day of touring finally brought us to Istria’s star attraction called Rovinj or in Italian, Rovigno. It has a population of just over 14,000 and offers great Italian food all over the place. It’s quite a beautiful fishing village and the boats are plentiful, as are the tourists, so we were very happy to be there in October and not in the summer. The walking was great especially in the early morning when you could see the fishers hauling in their catch and being followed by squawking gulls………and cats waiting for their treat as well. Once again there are cobbled streets and piazzas all around and we took advantage of the sites. For supper we ate at a pizzeria where once the pizza maker found out we were from Canada he snuggled in by Marilyn stating how it was a place he always wanted to visit. True to form she flashed a smile and when he went she said “he’s not coming with us!” He, like all the others, was very hospitable and gave us a free grappa which we are developing quite the taste for.

….has a pop. of 480 and is another little gem of a town perched on top of a hill in the Mirna River Valley. The Venetians fortified the town in the 14th century by building two sets of thick walls and it’s not easy getting up there. Parking is a challenge and then you walk the cobblestone paths to find many little shops and artist studios and every summer there is a film festival. According to the Lonely Planet this film festival has made Motovun the most touristry of Istria’s hilltop towns and the day we were there it was quite busy even in the off-season. The hike up the hill caused Jim to be a little thirsty, and us too, but what is not in the picture is Marilyn and I enjoying our first coconut gelato on the way down………some good!